MUKAI SHUZO
KYOTO
Kyōto prefecture is located close to the centre of Japan’s main island Honshū. The area is long and narrow from north to south and has the Tanba highlands positioned roughly at its centre, dividing the climate of the region into two varieties - the Japan Sea variety and the continental variety. Mukai Shuzo is located at the northern tip of Kyoto prefecture and is right on the coast of the Sea of Japan, in the picturesque fishing village of Ine. This small village, with a population of just over 3000, is built around the Ine Bay and is famous for the style of houses known as ‘funaya’ or ‘boathouses’. These houses have the first floor open to the water so that owners can moor their small fishing boats under their home. Mukai Shuzo is also built along the Bay and locals can even steer their boat up alongside to buy a crate of Sake!
Mukai Shuzo is a tiny brewery with an exceptionally long history having been founded in 1754 and is still a family run business today. The current Toji [Master Brewer] is Kuniko Mukai who is the eldest daughter of the Kuramoto [Brewery Owner] Yoshihisa Mukai. At the behest of her parents Kuniko left her small fishing village hometown to study fermentation and brewing techniques at Tokyo University of Agriculture. In 1998, after graduation, she spent one year as a brewery worker before assuming the role of Toji at her family's brewery. At that time Kuniko became one of the first female Master Brewers in Japan at the young age of 22. Becoming Toji at Mukai meant keeping alive the family-run tradition at their brewery that has now been brewing for 270 years. She is an exceptionally creative brewer who makes sake that are unique to anyone else.
While studying fermentation and brewing techniques at Tokyo University, Kuniko met Professor Takeda who encouraged her to create a sake made from the red rice he knew grew locally in Kuniko's hometown area of Ine. Professor Takeda also emphasised that the most important thing in sake brewing is the balance of flavours, with sweetness and acidity in harmony. In May 2000 Kuniko launched her first ever red rice sake called ‘Ine Mankai’ or ‘Ine in full bloom’ and today this has put Kuniko, Mukai Shuzo and Ine on the sake map.
As the town of Ine is limited for space the tiny Mukai brewery consists of two small buildings one on the waters edge with the other separated by a small road. One building is where the rice is washed, soaked and steamed before spending time in the koji room also housed in the building. All of the washing, soaking and steaming of the rice is done vertically as the space at the brewery is at such a premium. After the koji [inoculated rice] is ready, it has to be carried across the road to the other brewery building that contains the tanks for fermentation.
These are simply some of the most exceptional sake being made in Japan.
