PRODUCER PROFILE: Mii no Kotobuki

MII NO KOTOBUKI | FUKUOKA | JAPAN

Fukuoka is part of the region of Kyushu, which is Japan’s third largest island and is the most southwesterly of its four main islands. Kyushu was the main conduit for continental influences in Japan because of its close proximity to the Korean Peninsula and it is thought that rice farming was introduced into Japan through the Kyushu province around 500BC from China.

Mii no Kotobuki was established in 1922. The brewery is located along the Koishiwara river with the beautiful scenic back drop of the surrounding rice fields and the Mino mountain range in the distance. The Toji [Master Brewer] at Mii no Kotobuki is Tadatsugu Inoue who took over as Toji in 2002, although he was working and assisting his father in sake-making since 1996. Up to 35 years ago Mii no Kotobuki, like many small breweries at the time, were sub-contractors to larger producers of sake. After a trip to France to visit Bordeaux and Burgundy Inoue-san’s father returned home and decided overnight to stop volume-based production and to focus solely on quality and believed with a lot of hard work they could steer the business to success. He was correct. Today with this high attention to detail and by producing smaller amounts of high quality sake, they have built a dedicated local demand and a strong following amongst sake connoisseurs across Japan.⁠

Mii no Kotobuki utilise ‘Itoshima’ Yamada Nishiki rice as well as Gin no Sato and a local variety called Yumeikon both of which are grown locally. In addition Mii no Kotobuki contract local farmers to cultivate two specific rice types; Kokuryo Miyako & Mii-Shinriki. The latter of which is grown specifically for sake-making at Mii no Kotobuki and is not being used by any other brewery in Japan currently.⁠

YAMAHAI: Traditional Yeast Starter

YAMAHAI

山廃

To understand Yamahai and how it effects the style or taste of Sake, we have to first look at the technique and history of making Nihonshu [Sake]. 

The words ‘Shubo’ or ‘Moto’ in Sake-making means the yeast starter or starter culture. This is where a small amount of the raw ingredients are combined to create this starter. Creation of the Shubo is to cultivate active yeast cells in a pure form in mass quantity. In modern Sake brewing this can be done one of three ways. The most common way of creating the starter is called Sokujo or the ‘modern’ method. The other two ways are both ‘traditional’ methods known as Kimoto and Yamahai.

Yamahai is one of three main ways to create the Moto or starter for Sake fermentation. It is the first step in the fermentation process and it’s main purpose is to achieve high levels of yeast activity before being utilised in the main fermentation.⠀

The Yamahai yeast starter method was developed early in was developed in the Meiji period (1868-1912). The other variation on this traditional approach to creating the starter, Kimoto, was born in the Edo period (1603-1868). Both of these methods rely on cultivating lactic bacteria (which exists in the air, everywhere) to be included in the starter preparation. These lactic bacteria feed the yeast in the starter and produce lactic acid which prevents contamination from unwanted microorganisms. With the modern Sokujo method, lactic acid is purchased by the brewery and simply added in with the other raw ingredients. Essentially ‘feeding’ the yeast instantly and creating an acidic environment preventing spoilage from any unwanted microorganisms.⠀

The Yamahai method is created with the same steps as with Kimoto however with a few minor differences. The mixing and mashing of the rice does not take place, thus there is a need to promote the dissolution of the rice grains by another method. To do this a little more water is used and the initial temperature is higher by a few degrees. In addition the Mizu-Koji (Koji and water mixed together) is used to promote the engagement of Koji enzymes. 

Sake made in the Yamahai method generally tend to be richer in taste and a higher more pronounced acidity than those made using the modern Sokujo method. You as the drinker will find Sake that has a more savoury and spicy nose with an earthier and more bold palate or taste. These Sake are excellent young but because they provide a more rich and complex taste they also lend themselves to ageing in the short, medium or long-term.

Sake made using the Kimoto (生酛) or Yamahai (山廃) starter method will note this on the label of the bottle. If neither are present on the label you can assume that the Sake is made in the modern Sokujo method.

YAMAHAI SELECTION

PRODUCT: Kidoizumi Shuzo 'AFS'

AFS

A$59.00

Kidoizumi Shuzo have been brewing Sake since 1879 and the current Kuramoto (Brewery Owner) and Toji (Master Brewer) is Hayato Shoji. Shoji-san is the 5th generation to own and operate the brewery and has continued the tradition of the brewery in modern times. The focus at Kidoizumi is on traditional techniques, natural fermentation and ageing of Sake. They were one of the first breweries in Japan to offer Koshu (aged Sake) commercially in the 1960’s. They have a collection of aged products for the last 50 years with the oldest product being from 1967. All of the Sake at Kidoizumi are made using the Hot-Yamahai method which involves creating the starter (Yamahai traditional starter of simply placing the ingredients together and allowing the yeast activity to kick-off on its own) in very warm conditions. They have a long history of using this style of starter which the started using in 1956 and are the only brewery in Japan to utilise the technique.

The letters AFS represent an abbreviation of Adachi, Furukawa & Shoji who were the three families involved in the brewery in post-war Japan. At this time they decided to create the AFS brand to showcase the older more traditional style of Sake - more acidic, tangy and earthy. The technique involves using what is called Ichi-dan Shikomi or one stage fermentation (most Sake is made in three stages). The other important technique used is the Hot-Yamahai method the Kidoizumi developed. The result with AFS is a unique, full-bodied, multi-layered taste with a much higher tart acidity, green apple aroma and a delicate sweetness.